"The Fabric" Garment Construction part 1 of 5
Updated: Oct 1, 2019
This Summary series is meant to be a quick informative read, that will display and breakdown various information about fabrics that are crafted into the beautiful outfits you may see on display here or what you see currently being created within the fashion industry.
Cut and Sew -
Knits have different stretch qualities related to the stitch construction and fibre content, and knits can stretch across length and width, or in all directions. Consider where you require the stretch on a garment, usually where elbow and knee joints are and in the seat of a garment. Consider how much stretch is needed to get a garment over your head without a fastening.
Machine - knitted fabrics tend to twist in production so the grain is off. This can cause garments to hang badly. Follow a vertical rib or wale to determine the grain of the knit and lay your pattern pieces accordingly. Do not let the fabric hang off the end of the tables as you cut as this will cause distortions.
Silk jersey can be pinned first to tissue paper, pattern pieces can then be laid on and cut out with sharp scissors. Certain knits can ladder and will curl when cut (single jersey curls to the right side when cut) A ball point needle or stretch needle will glide between the yarns rather than piercing the fabric and causing laddering.
Jersey garment seams are overlocked together. This stitch allows the seams to stretch with the garment and not break. The stitch also contains the raw edges of the pattern pieces to create a neat finish. If no stretch is needed in a seam it may be advisable to stabilize it with a non-stretch tape, for example on a shoulder seam. Reinforce buttonholes with woven interfacing and hand stitching them. Let the garment hang overnight before measuring and hemming, then zigzag or twin needle the hem. Knitted garments should ideally be stored flat so they do not sag.